The U.S. is awash in a sea of cheap imports that has destroyed much of the domestic apparel industry. In 2023, less than 4% of the apparel purchased in America was made here, reports The Wall Street Journal (Dec. 31, 2024). Then, there is Walmart, whose aisles are piled high with goods this holiday season. But one item sticks out: cotton T-shirts that were made in America and cost $12.98.
It wasn’t tariffs that made the $12.98 shirt economically feasible, says the CEO of American Giant, the U.S. apparel company producing them. It was Walmart’s heft—and guaranteed orders. The country’s biggest retailer—and importer of consumer goods—pledged in 2013 to buy more items that were made, grown or assembled in the U.S. In 2021, Walmart increased its goal and promised to spend billions more each year through 2030.
American Giant said that without Walmart acting as a backstop by committing to buy a predetermined number of shirts over time, American Giant’s suppliers wouldn’t have had the confidence to make the investments in automation and other upgrades that drove down production costs. The company buys yarn that is grown, spun, dyed and sewn in the U.S., contracting with suppliers mainly in the Southeast. It also owns cutting and sewing facilities in N. Carolina and Los Angeles.
How did American Giant get the price down from the $40-$60 it usually charges for a T-Shirt? By automating parts of the process to keep labor costs low, it was able to compete with countries such as Vietnam and China where workers are paid a fraction of the U.S. minimum wage.
“You can make almost anything here, as long as it doesn’t require lots of labor,” says the CEO. To fulfill Walmart’s order for hundreds of thousands of shirts, the company tweaked the design and then spent $1 million on machinery designed to make production faster and more efficient.
The T-shirts arrived in 1,700 Walmart stores and were up against other 100% cotton T-shirts selling for half as much. But those shirts didn’t have any American emblems. Walmart bars suppliers from using the term “American Made” or the American flag on products that aren’t made in the U.S. Despite the success of American Giant and a handful of other apparel companies that have figured out how to produce domestically, it is unclear how much Americans care about buying products made in the U.S.
Classroom discussion questions:
- Could American Giant have reshored without Walmart?
- What are the key OM decisions that were made?