The recent tragedies at several Bangladeshi garment factories have claimed over 1,000 lives—and focused international attention on this important industry. So far, much of the discussion has focused on Bangladesh’s minimum wage law–the average garment worker gets take-home pay of $70-$80 per month. But The Wall Street Journal (May 17, 2013) raises the question of how that minimum wage is being paid.
While the worker is sewing, on another floor of the same factory building negotiations are under way between the factory owner and a retailer’s rep. The factory owner is offering a shirt to the buyer at $6.75 per piece. Of that, the owner will spend $4.75 buying the 1.9 yards of 100% cotton with a fine 50s thread count, and another $1 buying the labels, accessories and other components the retailer specifies. The remaining $1 per shirt funds the “cutting and making,” which includes wages for the workers. Part of it funds the letters of credit the manufacturer will use to ensure a steady supply of raw materials. Part of it goes toward capital expenses–and part will become the manufacturer’s profit.
An order for 400,000 shirts typically means that 400 workers produce 3,077 pieces per day. The wage cost works out to about 38 cents per shirt. Another 15 cents goes to sending the shirt for a fine washing spin. Rent and utilities for the factory floor works out to about 11 cents per shirt, and head-office and marketing costs for the factory are 11 cents.
The remaining 25 cents may cover repaying a 10-year bank loan at 18% interest, which the factory owner has used for set-up costs. All is at a delicate equilibrium, writes the Journal, until the owner feels compelled to give in to a firmly worded request from the retailer for an additional discount, or a demand to air-freight some boxes of shirts that suffered a 2-week production delay.
Discussion questions:
1. If the cost of upgrading factory safety averages $128,000, where should the money come from?
2. How do students feel about paying more for clothes to help raise the living and safety standards in the country making the product?
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When Pu Xiaolen was hired at the Foxconn plant in Chengdu, China a little over a year ago, she received a short, green plastic stool that left her unsupported back so sore that she could barely sleep at night. Eventually, she was promoted to a wooden chair, but the backrest was much too small to lean against. The managers of this 164,000-employee factory, she surmised, believed that comfort encouraged sloth, writes 
Taking the lead, Volkswagen announced last week that it would invest $65 billion in its global operations over the next three years; this as Germany’s robust auto industry seeks to limit its exposure to Europe. The move cuts a contrast to the belt-tightening of cash-strapped rivals such as France’s Peugeot and Italy’s Fiat which have shed assets or shelved model and technology changes this year as plummeting European sales push those companies deeper into the red. VW’s plan marks its efforts to step on the gas in its bid to dethrone Toyota as the world’s largest auto maker. Billions will go to a new Audi plant in Mexico. VW is likewise pouring money into Russia and China.
The garment factory fire in Bangladesh last week that killed 112 workers was a horrible tragedy. Emergency exits were padlocked and fire engines could not reach the blaze through dense and overcrowded roads. But the question for your students becomes: what does Walmart do with its clothing suppliers like this one? 
