“Fast fashion is a problem,” said a European Union official in The Financial Times (July 5, 2023). Lawmakers in the European parliament have called for an “end to fast fashion” and the setting of specific targets for textile waste collection, prevention and recycling. Fast-fashion brands such as the online retailers Shein and Boohoo and clothing giants H&M and Inditex (which owns Zara), have come under increasing pressure to move away from low-cost business models that have resulted in millions of tons of clothes being trashed.
The EU wants the textile industry to pay for the processing of discarded clothing and footwear under new rules aimed at cutting the environmental footprint of fast-fashion brands. It proposes to push clothing companies to improve the recyclability of their products and catalyze a growing second market. The equivalent of over 26 pounds of clothes and footwear per EU citizen is discarded each year of which more than three-quarters is incinerated or goes to landfill.
Companies that sell to consumers in the EU would be responsible for paying for the treatment of any waste textiles with the amount charged dependent on the amount of processing required. The cost of making companies pay for clothing waste would amount to 12 cents per T-shirt but it would vary according to the product and what treatment was needed.
Companies say they want to sell more sustainable products, but are hampered by the lack of recycling infrastructure. H&M said it backed the measures and aimed for 30% of its clothes to be made from recycled fibers by 2025. Euratex, the EU textile industry body, said that it was working on pilot projects with small fabric manufacturers in 11 textile producing regions to create a closed loop system with clothes better designed for recycling.
Fast fashion was invented by companies such as Zara, in the late 1990s, when they took the latest styles seen on the catwalk and brought similar products to market. Zara took only 3-4 weeks to bring a simple T-shirt from design to the stores and 6-8 weeks for a jacket or a dress.
Classroom discussion questions:
- How do your students feel about fast-fashion its environmental impact?
- What is the role of OM in this issue?