Labor exploitation, like environmental degradation, is baked into fashion supply chains around the world, writes The Financial Times (March 13, 2021). One contributory factor underlying these issues is a lack of traceability: most brands work with so many layers of middlemen that they don’t actually know who is sewing their garments, much less who’s dyeing the fabric or picking the cotton. Researchers at the Transparency Index (which ranks clothing brands based on how much they know and disclose about their own supply chains), say companies have a “total lack of knowledge about where the components of their products are being made, and at what cost to people and the environment”.
Hence a more technological approach to trace apparel supply chains: block-chain. U.K.-based Fibretrace is offering something unprecedented: a way to store supply chain information within the very fibres of a garment.
Here’s how it works: a bioluminescent ceramic pigment as fine as dust is added to the fibres at the beginning of the supply chain (for cotton, it’s added in the ginning stage, when the cotton fibres are separated from their seeds; for synthetics, it’s added at the fibre production stage). Each batch of pigment is created according to a unique “recipe”, which acts almost like a serial code.
Then, at each stop in the supply chain — dyeing, weaving or sewing — the fibre is scanned and that facility then adds new information about what they did to the fibre to a secure blockchain. The pigment is so safe for humans that it’s classified as an “edible product.” The cost: roughly 3 cents for a T-shirt.
Although being able to track a supply chain doesn’t necessarily ensure it will be free of forced labor or manufacturing practices that are bad for the planet, traceability is a very useful first step.
Classroom discussion questions:
- Describe how blockchain works in general, and in this industry in particular. (Hint: see page 453 in your Heizer/Render/Munson text)
- What other tools do brand name garment firms have to control supply chain sourcing ethics?
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